Unnaturally Knocked Up: Months Of Me: DIY Earring Display Storage Frame

My #MonthsOfMe project is going strong and I'm keeping myself very busy. Nesting, crafting, organizing, concert hopping, shopping, holidaying, happying. This time "off" has been just what I (didn't really know I) needed.

Mr. UKU and I have been ~~killing each other, reconnecting,~~ bonding over my spur of the moment DIY projects lately. We recently overhauled my closet to increase storage because my bedroom floor, bench, dresser and bathroom became auxiliary closets for my shit. 50% slob due to infertility (it becomes an excuse for everything), 50% slob due to lack of "space". New closet = no more excuses to keep up with bad habits.

The makeover is still a work in progress, so I'm only sharing a portion of it here today, but more to come soon. Now that my closet is no longer a hoarders haven, and just about everything has a place, I started to think of cute (and inexpensive) ways to display/store my jewelry, perfumes...random little things.

So here it is ... 2 Jews + power tools = Fancy (cheap) DIY Earring Display/Storage Frame.

What You Need:

Open Back Frame 18" x 24" (choose the size that works best for you)

Screen Roll (I used a 48" x 84" Fiberglass Insect Screen in the color Charcoal)

Small Tacks or Nails (I used these)

Hinges x 2 (I used these)

Drywall Anchors (if not drilling into a stud)

Optional: Magnetic Plate to keep frame flush against wall when not accessing back (I used two Super Magnet Discs and one plate from a magnetic catch with strike and it worked like a charm!)

Tools - Drill, measuring tape, hammer, painters tape/pencil (for wall marking), level.

Let's do this, bitches!

18" x 24" Decorative Open Back Frame (Purchased at Michael's on Clearance).
Great selection at Hobby Lobby as well. Don't forget your coupons!

I loved the detailing and two-tone filigree design.

We used small black tacks to secure the Fiberglass Screen to the back of the frame. Two people are needed for this step, one to hold the screen taught as the other nails it down, securing every 1.5" - 2" or so. Secure one side at a time, top, bottom, left, right, to ensure the screen doesn't sag.

Try to make the tacks or nails relatively flush against the frame.

Tacks holding screen to back of frame.

Once the screen is secured on all sides, cut off excess leaving about 1/2" on all edges. Be sure none shows from the front. Now you're ready for hinges!

Front view before hanging.

Add two hinges (one a few inches down from top left and one a few inches up from bottom left).

Cute little butt getting ready to install -- If you're not drilling into studs, this is where you should install your drywall anchors, matching up to the hinges on the frame. We did a whole lot of measuring and taping to be sure it would fall center, at the desired height.

The hinges allow the frame to swing open like a book, providing you access to the back, to add your posts and studs!

Utilizing the existing "hanging" hardware on the back of the frame, we marked on the wall where to install the magnetic plate to ensure the frame would "lock" flush against the wall when not in use. We used a drywall anchor to drill the plate from the magnetic catch strike kit to the wall. Once in place we put two of the super magnet discs onto the plate. Pushed frame against wall and it immediately clicked onto the magnet. This is all hidden behind the frame when closed. If your frame doesn't have any existing hanging hardware you can use, you can simply gorilla glue a magnet onto the back of your frame to connect with a wall installed magnet to achieve the same result. This step could be optional depending on the frame and hinges you choose. Without the magnet closure on my frame, it would not sit flush against the wall.